.wpml-switcher {
    margin-left: 1rem!important;
}

.wpml-bullets {
    --bullet-size: 1.8rem;
    --bullet-border: #808080;
    --bullet-text: #808080;
    --bullet-active-bg: #b58b59;
    --bullet-active-text: #ffffff;

    display: flex;
    align-items: center;
    align-self: center;   /* centre the whole switcher in the header row */
    gap: 0.5rem;
    margin: 0;            /* kill theme's default ul top/bottom margin */
    padding: 0;
    line-height: 1;       /* stop inherited line-height nudging it */
    list-style: none;
}

.wpml-bullets__item {
    display: flex;        /* so the li itself doesn't add baseline offset */
    align-items: center;
    margin: 0;
    padding: 0;
}

.wpml-bullets__item a,
.wpml-bullets__item a:link,
.wpml-bullets__item a:visited {
    display: flex;
    align-items: center;
    justify-content: center;
    box-sizing: border-box;
    width: var(--bullet-size);
    height: var(--bullet-size);
    border: 1px solid var(--bullet-border);
    border-radius: 50%;
    background: none;
    font-size: 0.7rem;    /* nudged down to suit 1.8rem */
    font-weight: 600;
    line-height: 1;
    text-decoration: none;
    color: var(--bullet-text);
    transition: background-color .2s ease, color .2s ease;
}

.wpml-bullets__item.is-active a,
.wpml-bullets__item.is-active a:link,
.wpml-bullets__item.is-active a:visited {
    background: var(--bullet-active-bg);
    color: var(--bullet-active-text);
    border-color: var(--bullet-active-bg);
}

.wpml-bullets__label {
    transition: opacity .2s ease;
}

.wpml-bullets__item a:hover .wpml-bullets__label {
    opacity: 0.6;
}

.wpml-bullets__item a .wpml-bullets__label {
    color: var(--bullet-text);   /* inactive: dark, stays visible */
}

.wpml-bullets__item.is-active a .wpml-bullets__label {
    color: #ffffff;              /* active: white on tan */
}